Frequently Asked Questions
What kind of questions should I ask?
8' wide - 4
10x36 - 6
10x44 - 8
10x50 - 8
12x60 - 10
Double wide - 12
Electrical and plumbing requirements?
FILTERS:Located behind the "filter access door" (the middle panel on the front of the unit) in a bard unit, there will be a one inch disposable filter which should be checked/replaced annually or more often depending on the environment that the system is operating in. Please note: a one inch filter can be replaced with 2 two inch filters. With the two inch filters, however, airflow will be restricted and should be checked monthly rather than annually. If a dirty filter is left unchecked, the performance of your system will go down and your bills will increase. Filters can be easily found in any hardware store or equipment supplier.
OUTSIDE AIR:With a Bard unit, you can order a standard (manual outside air intake) damper or a "commercial room ventilator." Both of these devices can be adjusted for maximum efficiency (by adjusting the damper to the minimum opening required) and bring fresh air into the room. The commercial room device automatically opens when the unit is operating and closes when it shuts off, whereas the standard system does not. Cost increases when the air intake increases. There is, however, a certain amount of outside air that should be taken in to maintain optimal air quality; completely closing the damper is not recommended.
SUPPLY AIR DIFFUSERS/DAMPERS:A ceiling duct, with diffusers attached, supplies conditioned air to each occupied room. Dampers are fixed on the diffusers to allow you to adjust the air volume so that the occupants are comfortable.
THERMOSTAT:A Manual Changeover type thermostat is installed on each bard system. To avoid increasing the operating costs, do not operate the thermostat like an on/off switch. This will only increase costs, rather than heat or cool the system more quickly. When the building is not occupied, the best way to save money is to manually set the temperature to 85 during the cold season and 55 during the warm season. There are two different settings on the thermostat. In the Auto setting (the setting for an indoor fan operation), the thermostat will automatically turn on the fan when needed. The fan will also run constantly, continuously bringing in fresh air, however, when it is set to the "on" position. The best time to run the system at the "on" position is when there is temperate weather.
ELECTRIC HEATING:Electrical heating systems are the most common systems installed in modular buildings and are designed to give the average temperature of the coldest and warmest periods. Various mechanical, building and energy codes determine this temperature. These systems, however, can be a little excessive for what is necessary, which makes it essential to establish the incoming service voltage to your building; the heat output drops as the service voltage drops, even though the cooling is not affected. Generally speaking, under-voltage will not be noticed. In cold weather, however, the system may not be able to maintain a constant temperature, making it necessary to adjust the damper for fresh air depending on the weather. Do not be alarmed when there is a "hot" smell in your building for several months after installation. When the heating system first starts up, it is normal for it to take a few months to adjust.
HEAT PUMPS:When an air conditioning system runs in reverse is it considered a "heat pump;" these pumps are most effective for moderately cold temperatures. If the temperature goes down below 25-30 degrees F, this type of system may not be the most effective. Because of the inefficiencies here, electrical heating systems are often attached to the heat pump so that when the temperature goes below 30 degrees, the electrical heat automatically kicks in. Because of this, your unit is also equipped with electric heat. It is also normal for a heat pump to produce air that feels cold; it generally only produces air that is between the 80-90 degree F range. Defrost cycles (pumping clouds of steam) are also normal for this system.
GAS HEAT:Conversion kits are also offered which will change the system from natural gas to propane. You must make sure, however, that the proper orifice is in place for this system. We also recommend hiring a professional for servicing this system. Simple filter replacements and damper adjustments, however, are done in the same manner that is outlined in the previous paragraphs.
Make sure the siding is not loose and there are no bubbles in the roofing. That might suggest water damage or mold growth.caulk around windows and doors and replace if necessary.
Check the caulk in the windows and replace if necessary. Check for broken glass and make sure the doors open easily (check doorstops, hinges, locks, latches, etc). Test all door closures, including the cabinets.
Look for animal/vermin damage, especially in the undercarriage.
Checking the wheels to make sure they haven't settled into the mud lets you know if you have the proper support or not. Also check the air pressure in the wheels.
Clear out all the drains, downspouts and elbows of nests and other obstructions. Running water through the drain is a good way to make sure that it is functioning properly.
Check for water or animal damage in the plastic wrap.
Replace air filters and run the heating and cooling systems to test them out.
Check the electrical system and replace fixtures if necessary.
Make sure the water lines are secure and not frozen, and the faucets, toilets, drains, etc are in working condition.
Do a general cleaning, including pain touch-up.
Check the floor for bumps and water stains.
Make sure all the battens still have good adhesion and the drywall seams are still intact.